No. 28: Kenilworth Road [Luton Town]

Saturday, 27th September 2014.
Luton Town v. Oxford United [SkyBet League 2] 2-0

So a return to watch Oxford's faltering start to the 2014-15 campaign this afternoon, with a trip to Luton's Kenilworth Road.

Another one that I have actually been to before, but as newly promoted  back into the Football League this season, being a completist means I had to come along again to feel satisfied with adding it to the completed list.

I've had two previous less than enjoyable trips to Kenilworth Road. The last one, a top of the table Conference clash back in Feb 2010, nearly resulted in myself getting a right good kicking on the walk back to the train station. I may be something of a soft lad, but it wasn't a pleasant experience at the time and I think for many a trip to Kenilworth Road isn't exactly something to savour.

But do you know what? This is a proper old football ground. It is run down, ramshackle, in the centre of town and surrounded by working-class terraced streets. And I guess you need to take that element of roughness as part of what creates an atmosphere in an old ground like this. And as one Luton fan said to me, perhaps if every team had such a passionate support from it's townspeople, then more places might be intimidating to a visiting fan too?

Kenilworth Stand, Luton Town FC

Even the walk to the away terrace itself is an experience. Dropped of by a taxi at the main Kenilworth Stand side of the ground, the away terraces are reached by walking down a dingy alleyway the length of the ground, in-between the stand and rows of residential streets at right angles to you.

I'm sure a fair amount of slaps have been dished out over the years along this walkway as home and away fans sidle past each other on the way to their respective stands. Thankfully, there wasn't really anything of a edge about the game this afternoon so I didn't encounter any moodiness around the ground.

The Oak Road stand that today houses the away fans used to be the home end. It is one of the most iconic entrances into a football ground in the country.

The turnstiles themselves occupy a space where a terraced house used to be, long since consigned to history.

Oak Road turnstiles, Kenilworth Road.

Not too many years ago, this sort of entrance would have been common to many Football League grounds, especially those still in the centre of towns like Kenilworth Road in. These days, they are a rareity and it's something of an experience encountering a ground shielded on all sides by people living their lives in houses pressed up against the football stands.

Stairway to Heaven? Not exactly...

Inside the turnstiles, a set of moss-covered steps rises up from what would probably have been a kitchen into the back of the stand. At the top of the steps of course is that famous view down into the gardens of the houses backing onto the stands. Although this is the third time I've been here I still find it quite a bonkers view. Why on earth would anyone want to live here? And if you did, would you put your washing out on a line underneath where lots of drunk football fans would be walking?

Piss-stained washing hanging out underneath the Oak Road Stand.

Well I wouldn't, I can tell you.

After urinating on the washing, you enter the back of the Oak Stand to be greeting by quite a sight. Well, actually, not much of a sight at all - it's as dark as a dimly-lit cellar from the back of the stand and until your eyes adjust, it looks as though the assembled ranks of fans in front of you are looking directly into the heart of the sun.

What a view! Of the centre of the sun.

The first thing that strikes you in a "proper" old ground like this is how the low, closed in roofs amplify the sound and carry the chants of the fans right around the ground. It sounds loud. And as the main group of home fans who like a sing-a-long are in the corner immediately to the right of the away fans, there was plenty of opportunity for what apologists for this kind of think refer to as "great banter".

Luton Fans: Boisterous.

And in fairness, it does always seem to create a decent atmosphere at Kenilworth Road. The game itself, from an Oxford point of view at least, was hardly inspiring. Certainly, Luton's first goal inside two minutes was a bit of a game-killer. Oxford still had a decent amount of possession but if I'm being honest, never looked likely to pull back into the game, as Luton seemed to be almost cruising at times - first to every 2nd ball, harrying the Oxford players on the ball and dominating a rather sparsely-populated midfield.

Kenilworth Road: Atmospheric.

By the time Luton scored their 2nd from the Penalty spot in the 2nd half, the game was all but over. The result sees Oxford languishing in the relegation zone, and with a quarter of the season now almost gone, warning bells may need to start being clanged soon enough. For Luton, it's still early days but dreams of back-to-back promotions could still be on the cards for them.

Being one of those rough & ready grounds, there also comes with it the perennial delay in getting home after the game due to police crowd control measures. 

Overkill?

Leaving the ground a few minutes early I was greeted by the sight of about 15 police cars and riot vans positioned down Oak Road, and a swollen police presence at the end of the road preventing the away fans from making a quick getaway.

I've always thought this was a misguided policy - basically allowing any home fans that want to have a pop time to get out of the ground and into position to attack once the ranks of police disappear into the mist. But even more so here, when the small handful of 5 or 6 fans around me, clearly not interested in trouble, merely wanted to get the first train out of Luton to AVOID any potential confrontations on the walk back to the train station, such as I experienced 4 years ago.

Bedfordshire's Finest preventing a quick escape.

Thankfullly, there was a member of Thames Valley police who was able to inform his Bedfordshire colleagues that none of the people trying to leave early were anything other than pissheads just wanting to get back into London to the pub. And so, we were let through.

At the bottom of Oak Road, the walk back to the station is down the commercial shopping hub of Dunstable Road - notable for being a hub of Luton's British Asian community - which makes up about 30% of Luton's population and why this town has been a flashpoint in recent years for ethnic tension.

Dunstable Road: Fruit & Veg Madness.

 Luton is in fact one of only 3 towns in Britain where "white Britons" are in the minority, making up around 45% of Luton's population according to the 2011 census. Ignorance is rife about this issue of course, because despite this being true, Luton still has a white majority, when non-British europeans such as Irish or Eastern Europeans are included.

Nonetheless Luton and it's relatively high muslim population (about 25% of Luton's population is muslim) has become a cause célèbre for groups wishing the death of integration and multiculturalism - thanks in no small part to a series of events down this very street in 2009, which saw clashes between two such intolerant groups from very different backgrounds - the Anti-Islamic EDL, formed here in Luton in response to an anti-armed forces protest by militant Islamic group Al-Muhajiroun as a parade of soldiers marched through the town.

Two wrongs don't make a right in my eyes, and both groups for me preach hate and intolerance that was not in evidence for me as I walked back to the station, so I find it a shame that Luton's vibrant multiculturalism is tarred by association with these two groups. 

Personally, I quite enjoy the walk down Dunstable Road, and the bright colours of sari shops and exotic vegetables on display amidst the crowds of British Asians doing their afternoon shop as groups of football fans filter through the streets on the way back to the train station.

It's certainly a nicer walk than that alleyway was before the game!

Luton's reputation as an unwelcoming place for an away fan is of course, still justified. We didn't pass a single pub that would have welcomed our custom as away fans on the way back to the station so a trip here is very much one of those "in and out" moments - which is a shame.

I had planned to meet up with a Luton fan in a pub before the game (sneaking in to an home fans only pub), but in the end I left London too late. Maybe next time I will make extra time though, and even have a post-match curry down dunstable Road. 

I'm sure I'll be back again, as a trip to places like Luton, with all it's rough edges, is what watching English League Football is all about.

With thanks to Tom Skinner & Pete Galvin (@JustPete)

Next Up: Vicarage Road! [Watford v. Millwall 1st Nov 2014]

No. 68: AMEX Community Stadium [Brighton & Hove Albion]

Saturday, 20th September 2014.
Brighton & Hove Albion v. Blackpool [SkyBet Championship] 0-0

A lacklustre 0-0 draw against a team that hasn't threatened a league win yet this season may not sound like I visited a team “on the up” this weekend.

But despite current on-field fortunes, Brighton & Hove Albion are a club in control of their destiny, having grabbed hold of it from the brink over the last 15 years.

Brighton were one of the first “crisis clubs” of the post-Sky Sports world. In 1996-97 season, the debts were piling up and the then owners decided The Goldstone Ground would have to be sold to property developers, despite the wishes of the fans. On the field, things were just as bad and Brighton spent most of the season firmly at the bottom of the Football League - as much as 11 points adrift by December.

The Turning point was the Fans United Day in Feb 1997 - an idea that fans from around the country should turn up at The Goldstone and support their cause.

Fans United Day 1997.

Thousands did turn up, The Seagulls won 5-0 and didn't lose another home game for the rest of the season - avoiding relegation to the Conference with a draw at Hereford on the last day of the season. A result which instead saw the hosts relegated instead in amazing scenes at Edgar Street.

Nonetheless, the sale of the ground could not be avoided, and despite lifelong fan and local businessman Dick Knight wrestling control of the club, Brighton now had now home to play at.

Last Game at The Goldstone Ground, 1997.

I spent much of my last entry [Doncaster] bemoaning their soulless new stadium on the edge of town, but it's difficult to think similarly of Brighton's newly built stadium as anything other than a success story for a club exiled for 14 years from a rightful home.

For two seasons from 1997-1999 Albion fans had to trek 80 miles across the county border to Gillingham, Kent. A woeful time for the club which many fans choose to try and forget.

Withdean Athletics Stadium: Brighton's home 1999-2011.

It must have been bad to have considered the move to the Withdean in 1999 as an upgrade. As far away from a football ground as it's possible to be whilst still physically able to kick a pigskin around in it, The Withdean was an athletics track with a football pitch inside it as an afterthought. I'm happy to say I never had the pleasure of visiting myself, but having experienced similar viewing “pleasures” at other athletics stadiums, I don't think I missed much.

After those two grounds, Seagulls fans would have probably taken any soulless bowl to play in – as long as it was theirs, and as long as it was in Brighton. Well, the AMEX is a step up from the usual modern football ground, that is for sure, and you can understand why the man that secured the funding to finally get it approved and built - Chairman since 2009 Tony Bloom, can do little wrong in most fans' eyes.

AMEX Stadium viewed from Falmer Train Station.

The AMEX stadium is located in Falmer – technically a village just outside the city boundaries of Brighton, but still a convenient 10min train ride from the seaside resort, so it feels very much of the city.

The first thing to notice about the matchday experience at The AMEX is that they've done all they can to encourage arriving by public transport, in fact. I went with a friend & his son from their home of Littlehampton, about 30miles down the coast. The football club subsidise all travel for ticketholders within a 15 mile radius, so effectively, the train from Shoreham-by-Sea to Falmer was completely free for us.

The House that Bloom Built: Brighton's AMEX Stadium.

A winning start in the PR war. As the Football League club with such a large catchment area without any other rival professional clubs, especially along the coastal strip, it does seem wise to incentivise getting people to come from afar. I was told that Brighton had the largest catchment area in English professional football – but without checking I think that fact may have been from before poor neglected Crawley, just 22 miles away, were promoted into the FL a few years ago!

Changing at Brighton, we decided to go straight up to the Stadium and see what was there as pre-game entertainment. Well, in truth not very much. The ground is literally in the middle of nowhere, save for the train station itself and the adjacent University of Sussex campus. 

Nonetheless, there were food and beer stalls to partake of, as well as a music stage and a local indie band plying an enjoyable if not always advisable set-list to those gathered outside (A self-declared “nod” to the people of Scotland in this Referendum week by the vocalist with a turgid rendition of “Flower of Scotland” was greeting mostly with bemusement by the English football crowd).

The club mascots seemed to enjoy themselves though. Even if the pigeon one seemed to take exception when the singer asked him what the hell he was supposed to be. Feral.

Inside the ground, and well – it can't be denied this is an impressive new stadium, one of which most clubs would be rightly proud. 

The two side stands have the curved sweep to the top of the tiers that has been popular in recent new builds, with the smaller ends having steeper rows of seats topped off with scoreboards and executive boxes rather than banks of seats dropping backwards – which lends the ground a bit more opportunity to build an atmosphere, being that much closer to the pitch side. And best of all – padded seats throughout!

Looking to the West Stand from the North Stand: AMEX Stadium.

Hey – don't get me wrong, I'd still rather be stood up on a terrace. But if you have to sit down, wouldn't you rather have a padded back than a piece of cold plastic? No point in being a puritan about these things.

Disappointingly for a reasonable home crowd of 25,000 – the fans weren't able to create much of an atmosphere in the ground. We were in the main home end of the “North Stand” where I was told all the singing emanated from. But I have top be honest and say that other than a couple of brief, PA-led mumbled renditions of club anthem “Sussex-by-the-Sea” when the teams came out for each half, and half a dozen chants of “Albion, Albion, Albion” scattered through the 90mins – I heard bugger all but chitter-chatter & yawns from the ranks of blue & white stripes around me.

And I'm sad to say that I took advantage of three empty padded seats near me and laid across them for a half-time snooze having been put to sleep by the 1^st half.

Stand or Fall for Sussex By The Sea...

Which was a shame – as I was hoping from first impressions that this was going to be the ground where my opinion on new-build stadia might have changed; Where I accepted that some of them can actually make a transition from the rickety Edwardian terraces to the clean, brushed concrete & fibreglass frames of the 21^st Century without a concomitant loss of character and atmosphere.

Sadly not. I'll cut them some slack though – it was hardly inspiring fayre on the green stuff – nor did my imagined “Meeting of the Seaside Town giants of the North & the South” bear fruit. Other than they both produce rock, saucy postcards & keep Jim Davidson gainfully employed on the ends of their respective piers, what on earth do Brighton & Blackpool really have to talk about? Very little, judging by the poor sub-300 turn-out of away fans.

East Stand, AMEX Community Stadium

But I can't help feeling there would have been a few more songs, a bit more banter & excitement for a neutral if we were at The Goldstone. Probably not the Withdean or Preistfield, mind you. And I'm sure when Crystal Palace come down here, the packed ground and braying crowd would put the Colosseum of Rome to shame. And I have to say it again – it is a very nice ground.

Getting back into Brighton was a piece of cake too – crowds streamlined onto trains & within 20mins of the final whistle we were walking through those fabled cobbled lanes full of hipster beards & tie-dyed sarongs perusing the arty-farty shops for overpriced tat.

Brighton Beach: Lovely Stuff.

We didn't linger long in Brighton, it felt a place for much more with-it and youthful souls than I. But we did take time to wander along the glorious seafront & park ourselves on a beachfront bar for a quick beer watching the sun drop down over the skeleton of the East Pier.

Brighton's East Pier: Ghostly.

What a beautiful city Brighton really is.

And what a beautiful future this club has. 

I have no doubt from impressions I got that Brighton & Hove Albion have a bright and secure future as a very well run football club, very much a part of this part of the Sussex coast's community, and very much a club of tomorrow.

With thanks to Tim Jones (@TimJones15).

Next ground on the 92 Club Trail: 27^th September 2014: Luton Town's Kenilworth Road!

Can you help answer a few questions about your club? Please email me at fantasticmrox@mail.com

No. 67: Keepmoat Stadium [Doncaster Rovers]

Saturday, 30th August 2014.
Doncaster Rovers v. Oldham Athletic [SkyBet League 1] 0-2

Visiting my wife's family in Doncaster was the perfect excuse to take in my first "neutral" game of the 92 quest, in what I assumed could be a fiery encounter, being a Yorks-Lancs derby of course as Oldham travelled across the Pennines to South Yorkshire.

It wasn't really though. There was a slight bit of needle because of how former Latics captain & South African international Dean Furman left Boundary park for Doncaster 18 months ago, and sure enough he got a few boos from the visiting fans when he touched the ball - but that was it really.

The liveliest interaction I really saw was some stewards debating with a few Oldham youths at the away turnstiles about what a chip sandwich should be called. "A chip butty?!! It's called a Chip Barm in Oldham!"

As I passed the conversation, I was asked to chip in (no pun intended): "'ere mate, what do you call it, a barm or a butty?" Not wanting to give away that I was a soft Southerner, I just shrugged and moved on. Although for the record - double carbs? I'd call that a "fucking travesty".

So it was a strange place to be, watching two teams I cared nothing about, play out a reasonably one-sided not very eventful late August league fixture. But I guess, given the task at hand, I may have to put up with a few of these.

So, after having a cup of tea with the wife's family, I left their place on foot and walked the 2 miles to the Keepmoat Stadium. And a surprisingly lovely walk it was too - not the grim Northern run-down town I expected to be traipsing through, but in fact a very green and pleasant redevelopment, culminating with a lovely artificial lake with a path alongside just before you get to the ground. There were even pedalos and kayaks for hire, should you so wish for some pre-match entertainment.

The ground itself was on the other side of a man-made hillock from the lake, and from this other side, the immediate vicinity was more of what I expected from this reasonably new, purpose-built new stadium.

Which is basically to say, very little.
The Keepmoat is certainly fit-for-purpose and I'm sure many clubs would be over the moon to have a stadium built like it. It's rigid, it's clean, it's comfortable, it's accessible and only 7 years old, it still has the sparkle and shine of a new stadium about it.

But let's be honest - it looks like dozens of other identikit bowls built to this sort of spec, and try as you might, you are never going to retain anything of the character of their old home - the rickety post-war terraces of Belle Vue - in a place like this.

The one Doncaster fan that responded to my request for some info on their club before my visit shared these sentiments fully. No accusing Rob Ghosh of not being a proper fan - we will see why later - but since moving across to the Keepmoat this former ST holder these days rarely goes to more than 10-12 games a season - and these mainly away.

His lack of desire for attending home games is because "the atmosphere is like a morgue. It's a sea of red seats with about 20 people stood up at the top, half-heartedly singing a third of a chant." After Saturday's game, I can only agree, sadly.

The Keepmoat Stadium: Looking from one end to the other. The same.

It's not the fans fault though of course. Stick even the most passionate group into a cake-tin like the Keepmoat and give them mediocre football, and I bet the passion would wane. Rob isn't just sitting at home moaning about it though, along with a few others he set up the "Doncaster Rovers Supporters Group" (DRSG) over the summer, with an aim to improve the match day atmosphere, merchandising & prices at the club for the benefit of all supporters. They are already 500 strong and looking for new members. If you are a Donny fan and want to do something about the negative press that idiots like me give your new ground's atmosphere - pop along and help these brave boys in their efforts, here.

The worst thing about these new-builds is they are often in the middle of fucking nowhere. And indeed, I struggled to find anything immediately around the ground to do before kick-off, other than ponder a pint of generic lager in the Beefeater & a filthy cheeseburger in the McDonalds, both about 10mins walk from the turnstiles around a new road system.

Dirty Statue.

Still, there was a nice sculpture to look at whilst walking to the ground of some bloke holding a girl's feet whilst trying to rub her fanny.

Inside the ground, you could at least get a pint of Doncaster Rovers Ale underneath the stand. Just the usual generic burgers and hotdogs though - no Chip Butties or toasted teacakes in sight, sadly.

Keepmoat in action: Looking towards a side of the ground. Samey.

I took my seat and perused the match day programme. I was interested to see One Direction's Louis Tomlinson's name on the squad list, at no. 28. I had heard about his love of DRFC & the failed takeover of the club over the summer - but had no idea our Louis is a genuine professional footballer as well as a heartthrob to a generation of teenage girls. Although his appearances in the red & white of his hometown club seem to have been limited to one 65th minute sub appearance in a reserve game against Rotherham last season. Seems odd to give him squad number then, unless it's a weird publicity stunt so that the club can sell Rovers loom bands to the 1D fan club? Surely not!

Tomlinson: No sponsors.

I did notice though from the programme that Tomlinson has failed to get any sponsors for his kit this season. Clearly not a fan favourite at the Keepmoat, despite his 4 Brit Awards & releasing the biggest-selling album of the year in 2013. Some people have very high expectations.

The game itself, well - it was mediocre. But then that could well have been because I didn't really care about the result. Oldham looked to have the game in their hands from the off, going 1-0 up in the 4th minute. And Doncaster didn't genuinely threaten after that.

The only other event of note was an unusual triple-substitution by Rovers manager Paul Dickov in the 56th minute. You don't often see that, do you?

And the temporary disarray amongst the Rovers defence that led to the giving away a penalty in the 57th minute may help explain why you don't often see such a de-stabilising move by most managers. Quickly dispatched, it was 2-0 to the visitors and that was basically that.

That sea of red seats that Rob had told me about had opened right up in front of me by the time the 80th minute came around, as the resigned Donny fans sidled out early.

My knees in attendance.

Many of them may join Rob in their self-imposed exile for the next game. I overheard one fan, when asked if he'd be up there next week, say "I'd rather watch t'paint dry on me shed!".

Fair enough. I stayed the distance though - hardcore, I am.

All Over - All out.

The highlight of my trip to Doncaster was an evening "on the tiles" in this surprisingly fun market town. A night out in Doncaster might not be top of most people's lists, but we had a reet good time, as it 'appens (Sorry).

We started with a Yorkshire standard, and a must-do - Fish 'n' Chip supper. We went with local recommendations to the fabulous Rothwell's - and my cod, chips, mushy peas & scraps with red sauce were a triumph. Seek out this unassuming place, right next to the market, next time you find yourself in Doncaster with a deep-fried craving.

Marvellous Yorkshire Chippy Tea.

You may be thinking that after such a weighty feast, I'd be straight off to my Premier Inn purple bed to sit and watch X Factor & Doctor Who, at my age. Well no fear - not when there's a ruddy live music festival going on in the pubs and clubs of Doncaster! We couldn't believe our luck, the civic streets of the town had music drifting through the air, amid the shrieks and giggles of many scantily-clad parties of young ladies, albeit.

Cask Corner, Doncaster. Fallen Trees on stage.

We based ourselves in the wonderful Cask Corner for much of the evening, listening to the Blues Stage of the festival - and we had a fantastic evening, enjoying the steel guitar rock 'n' blues covers of Steve Chapman Smith & his lovely leather stetson, to the "deep & dirty blues from the mean streets of Sheffield" from Fallen Trees. They had some grinding riffs, indeed.

Good shit, and all washed down with some choice, hoppy selections from the 10+ cask ales on tap.

So, on reflection - Doncaster was a surprisingly good away weekend destination - just a shame the football and the soulless ground were showed up by the soul food and the soul (well, blues, really) music that followed.

All in all - a good day out. Moral of the story? Don't pre-judge anything! Unless it's a lego-build identikit stadium, of course.

With thanks to Rob Ghosh (@Rupee92).

Next ground on the 92 Club Trail: Exeter City's St James' Park [13th Sep 2014].
Can you help answer a few questions about your club? Please email mefantasticmrox@mail.com